Guinea Pig World

Guinea Pigs: Social Animals

2009-11-12T08:40:00.000-08:00

Guinea pigs are very social animals. This sentence reveals that they get along fine and prefer to be in groups. In most of the cases, two females will get along simply very well. They are less hostile than males, even though when they initially get to know one another, power will be ascertained. They will move around each other, from time to time, lifting their body higher off the ground, open their mouth, and demonstrate their teeth to try to make an impact on the other guinea pig. They might pinch at each other's throats or noses, however most of the time; no body will in fact get nibble.

However, alternatively, two males will not live so fine. Males always struggle for supremacy, and even once ascertained, the lesser one will persist to fight for the right to develop into the male of the group. There are just two circumstances with which it would be harmless to keep two males: if the males were born in the same litter or have been as one since birth or not long after. In these cases, putting two males as one might not be a terrible idea (simply don't put in a female or another male to the group).

Another thing to think about prior to getting a guinea pig is that placing a male and female collectively will most possibly bring about a litter of 5-6 babies. Even while you have two females, mostly when one female enters into her cycle, the other might turn out to be a little lively. The one might push the bottom of the one in heat. However it's not a dreadful thing. It's simply normal; therefore allow them to carry out what they have to do.

Generally, having two differently aged guinea pigs collectively in a cage will work out all right. If you have a younger and older male guinea pig collectively, it could perhaps work out.

Click Here to Visit the "Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs" Website

Copyright 2009, All Rights Reserved

Guinea Pigs: Introduction

2009-11-12T08:34:00.000-08:00

A lot of people believe that guinea pigs came from Guinea or New Guinea for the reason of their name, however they truly didn't. Guinea pigs came from South America and the Andes Mountains of Peru. A lot of people who possess guinea pigs as pets simply call them "guinea pigs". Others, who demonstrate or breed them, call them "cavies."

They are found in several different breeds and colors. A few breeds are: Abyssinian, Agouti, Short-Hair, Angora, and White-Crested. These breeds are determined by a lot of factors, together with color, length, and fur samples. Guinea pigs also differ in color. A few are sandy, a few are brown, black, or white, and few are also multicolored. A number of guinea pigs are albino. This reveals that their fur is white; however their eyes are reddish-pink.

Guinea pigs do not have tails, contrasting other rodents such as gerbils, hamsters, and mice. They have body hairs and are born with fuzz. They have two front legs and two back legs. You can put in the picture what sex a guinea pig is by looking at their bottom. Do not twist it over on its back. Guinea pigs, contrasting cats, are not very nimble, which implies that they are not bendable. If a guinea pig fell from an altitude, it would be incapable to land on its feet. Guinea pigs feel very timid while on their back, in addition to that their back is not destined to sustain them when lying down.

And it's truly very appealing that guinea pigs are diurnal, i.e. that they are wakeful all through the day, and sleep at night, similar to human beings.

Click Here to Visit the "Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs" Website

Copyright 2009, All Rights Reserved

Guinea Pig Diet II

2009-11-12T08:32:00.000-08:00

Pellets are a component of a usual guinea pig diet. They have several vitamins and minerals added, as a result they are truly healthy. Guinea pigs don’t think them a treat if not there are additional dried fruits or nuts added to them.

Salt and mineral wheels are not obligatory. Salt wheels are precisely what they are called. It is salt created into the shape of a wheel that can be fixed to the cage. Then the guinea pig can chew on it whenever it feels like it. The mineral wheel is a blend of minerals and salt. It is generally of reddish color, contrasting the salt wheel that is at all times white.

Vitamin C is extremely significant to guinea pigs. They can obtain this from fresh fruits. Oranges have a definite huge quantity of Vitamin C. Vitamin C facilitates fight contagions in guinea pigs, on top of to cure wounds. It also facilitates break down and metabolize proteins in the guinea pig's diet.

Clean and fresh water is essential for guinea pigs to survive. Change the water whenever considered necessary, if at all possible twice in a week.

The complete digestive tract of a guinea pig is almost 2.3 meters long. A few things required for a guinea pigs' continued existence are: Vitamins, minerals, carbohydrate, fats, proteins, and certainly, water

A few vitamins which are considered necessary for the existence of a guinea pig are: Vitamin A, Vitamin B12, Thiamine, Riboflavin, Vitamin D, Vitamin E, and Vitamin K.

A few minerals which are considered necessary for the existence of a guinea pig are: Calcium, Copper, Iron, Magnesium, Phosphorous, Potassium, and Sodium.

Guinea pigs will rarely eat their own feces. The feces still have some extra nutrients, and thus the guinea pigs eat them. This is a type of recycling. It will not harm them, and it will in fact help them survive, for the reason of the components within them.

Click Here to Visit the "Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs" Website

Copyright 2009, All Rights Reserved

Guinea Pig Diet

2009-11-12T08:30:00.000-08:00

Most finest foods for guinea pigs to consume are: apples, bananas, pears, strawberries, grapefruit, honeydew melon, kiwis, tangerines, yellow plums, oranges, watermelon, grapes, lemons, cauliflower leaves, broccoli, turnips, peppers, parsley, red beets, cucumbers, celery, spinach, tomatoes, and zucchini.

Most worst foods for guinea pigs to consume are: Iceberg lettuce, all types of green cabbage, Chinese cabbage, cauliflower, and red cabbage.

Fatal foods for guinea pigs to consume are: Potato peelings and raw beans. As for the real potato, there has been a little bit uncertainty regarding whether they are or aren't fatal to guinea pigs. To be on the safe and sound side, it is recommended don’t feed potatoes to your guinea pig.

Hay is an additional excellent food for guinea pigs. It is the fundamental food for guinea pigs. If you feed them hay together with water, it is appropriate for the winter! This is just right in the case when no fresh veggies or fruits are obtainable.

You can collect plants from outside to feed guinea pigs. They adore outdoor greens very much. Simply make certain that there are no flowers or dried out tree leaves in the collection you select. If there are any leaves or flowers in it, remove them and feed just the plant leaves and stalks to your guinea pig. Grass is also believed to be a delight to guinea pigs. If you do make your mind up to gather outdoor plants, do not collect them if they develop close to roads or sidewalks, or have been taken care of with pesticides.

Toilet paper tubes and paper towel tubes are totally okay for guinea pigs to consume. It gives them a bit to chew on to facilitate their teeth, on top of something to play with. It is also as if an in-between meal for them, at the time when they aren’t eating anything else.

Click Here to Visit the "Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs" Website

Copyright 2009, All Rights Reserved

Exercise and Guinea pigs

2009-11-12T08:29:00.000-08:00

Guinea pigs are similar human beings in the field of exercise also. They require exercise just as humans do. You should take your guinea pig elsewhere and allow it to run around in every two to three days. If you take your guinea pig outside, make certain that it doesn't run on the road. Guinea pigs are scared of strident and unexpected noises, as a result when a car is heard passing on the road; it may make an effort to run away, considering that something is following them

In addition to the above mentioned fact, you should also make certain that it isn't extremely cold or extremely hot outside for your guinea pig. An excellent temperature range for guinea pigs is 64º to 72º F. If you don't prefer to do that or can't, allow it to run all over the room with the door closed. Make certain there are no electrical wires in the region and that it won't get stepped on or lost. A lot of guinea pigs die for the reason that people don't make out them and step on them or electrical wires from lamps, TVs, or radios are left where guinea pigs can catch at them.

Guinea pigs find irresistible to chew on everything, as a result be alert as rugs may turn out a little messy after a guinea pig has been out to play. You should also consider the fact that guinea pigs will almost certainly follow bedding all over the room and that it might go to the bathroom on the floor. Just a heads-up for what you may observe at the time of letting your guinea pig run free in a room.

Click Here to Visit the "Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs" Website

Copyright 2009, All Rights Reserved

Advice For Kids on Guinea Pigs

2009-08-04T09:07:00.000-07:00

Animal welfare services fear guinea pigs will be victim of Disney craze

Animal welfare services fear the number of guinea pigs being abandoned will rocket when Disney releases its new film.

G-Force, is about a team of trained secret agent guinea pigs who take on a mission for the US Government to save the world.

The film was released in Brighton yesterday(FRI) but animal groups now fear children will dump newly bought guinea pigs after they fail to live up to their animated counterparts.

Veterinary charity PDSA said the film could cause a rise in guinea pig sales in Brighton by people who do not know how to properly care for them.

Leigh Forbes, head of small animals at Raystede animal welfare centre in Ringmer, said: “We predict a lot of problems. We may have to add more units to our guinea pig section.”

The RSPCA also voiced its concern about the film encouraging people to buy guinea pigs.

Jenny Welles, from the RSPCA in Braypool Lane, Patcham, Brighton, said: “Unfortunately people go to commercial outlets, buy pets and get rid of them after six months.”

She asked people to be responsible when buying pets and to consider getting them from RSPCA shelters instead of buying them.

Elaine Pendlebury, PDSA Senior Veterinary Surgeon, said: “We know that some animals become very popular as a result of films or TV”.

“Some people opt for a small furry animal thinking that they are easier to care for than larger pets. The reality is that they often need just as much time, care and attention as a larger pet.”

The charity also advised against keeping guinea pigs and rabbits together, a common mistake which uninformed pet owners make.

An RSPCA spokeswoman said: “Guinea pigs have particular care and dietary requirements so that they can live a long and healthy life, which is usually around seven years”.

“They are also highly sociable animals and should not be kept on their own. Ideally, they should live with another family member, such as one of the same sex from the litter.”

Steve Edgington, owner of Hassocks Pet Centre, said: “I can't see people rushing out of the cinema to buy guinea pigs”.

“Anyone that wants to buy a pet is informed of the responsibilities involved and we'll carry on with the usual routine.”

It would not be the first time a Disney film has made keeping an animal more popular as a pet.

After the Finding Nemo and 101 Dalmatians films, clown fish and dogs became more popular among children. Many were bought and then abandoned.

Under the Animal Welfare Act, pet owners have a duty of care to provide for their animal by giving them a proper diet and fresh water, as well as protection from and treatment of illness and injury. Anyone who is found guilty of neglect faces a fine of up to £5,000 and a six-month prison sentence.

Click Here to Visit the "Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs" Website

Source - The Argus.co.uk

Copyright 2009, All Rights Reserved

Review - The Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs By Rachel Garlick

2009-07-26T05:45:00.000-07:00

The Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs By Rachel Garlick

"Discover Little-Known Secrets To Raising A Sweet-Smelling, Loveable, Clean & Playful Guinea Pig: Healthy, Happy, and Thriving For Years to Come!"

Some amazing facts about Guinea Pig care... and why you shouldn't even think about getting a Guinea Pig until you read every word of this review!

The Guinea Pig (or Cavy) is an ideal and time-tested favourite pet but getting a new pet is exciting and also a little daunting. What every new pet owner needs is a source of instant knowledge and immediate answers to a range of vital questions – this is where the “The Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs by Rachel Garlick” really comes in handy for Guinea Pig owners or if you are thinking of getting one.

Lack of information is not the case with this guide. This guide provides the information and tailor-made advice necessary to successfully raise a happy health Cavy. This easy-to-use family guide is full of helpful advice on how to choose a Guinea Pig and how best to look after it. All aspects of daily care are covered, including – Housing, feeding, breeding, handling, hygiene, exercise, optimum health and First Aid - with step-by-step instructions from start to finish.

It covers most topics found in other books, except in this guide you get much more than the simple basic facts. Forget your worries - This guide is written in a language that is both complete and easy to understand - there are no unnecessary scientific jargon.

I have to say that “The Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs” has not disappointed me – in fact, I was amazed at the quality and quantity of the information on offer at such a reasonable price.

The Most Comprehensive Online Guide on Guinea Pig Care is Finally Being Released to the Public! Instantly Find Answers to All Your Guinea Pig Questions in this time-tested guide.

The author has compiled all her knowledge into an easy to follow, downloadable comprehensive guide called "The Ultimate Guide to A Happy, Healthy Guinea Pig: Secrets to Caring for Your Furry Friend."

The author’s knowledge and experience was gained from all the hard work and research she did when caring for her daugther’s Guinea Pig.

I was extremely pleased with the way she covered Diet, Nutrition and Health. She has developed a foolproof 'formula' for feeding, setting up a healthy cage environment (with perfect health in mind) and diet conditions that would give your Guinea Pig maximize health and energy for years to come and greatly reducing the chances of your Guinea Pig suffering from serious health issues.

Having had 2 Guinea Pigs died on us in the last 3 years – since we implement Rachel system, our 3 Guinea Pigs seems to have developed a new zest for life.

This amazing guide is guaranteed to work for you and she stand’s behind it 100%. You have 60 full days to put it to work and you either you love it or you get a refund and keep it free – No questions asked!!

If you currently own a Guinea Pig or are thinking about getting one or you sadly have lost one over the years, I strongly recommend that you get your hands on a copy of “The Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs”.

Click Here to Visit the "Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs" Website

Copyright 2009, All Rights Reserved

Guinea Pigs - Facts to Know Before Buying or Adopting One By Florian Ross

2008-01-12T09:08:00.004-08:00

Regardless of where you choose to purchase your guinea pig, the price will be relatively the same. Most pet stores charge between $10 and $15 for a guinea pig while breeders and rescue organizations charge around $20 to $30. Some breeders may charge more for certain breeds than others.

Before you take home a guinea pig from a breeder, a pet store, or a rescue organization, you need to do the following things:

Ask how old the guinea pig isA guinea pig should never be taken from its mother earlier than four weeks, and some breeders recommend waiting until at least six weeks. If the individual does not know, then you shouldn't buy that guinea pig.

Ask what sex it is
Even if you plan on sexing the guinea pig yourself, you should ask the person selling it to you to specify its gender. Don't let them tell you that the animal's too young to be properly sexed since that's never the case.

Ask if the males and females have been kept separated
Some pet stores already do this, but since many of their employees are not able to tell one guinea pig's gender from the next, it may not always be reliable.

Check the guinea pig's health
As you are choosing your guinea pig, you should look for the following things since they signal an unhealthy animal:

- Unless the guinea pig is alone, it should not be sitting by itself in a corner. These are lively, social creatures that enjoy contact with one another and people.

- Check the guinea pig's skin for bald patches and its eyes and nose for discharge. These are signals of health problems.

- Look at the droppings in the cage (you don't have to get too close) and be sure that you don't see evidence of diarrhea.

- Check female guinea pigs for signs of pregnancy. If they are very large near their rumps, then it is very likely they are pregnant.

Remember that the health of the guinea pig is especially important if you are bringing it into a home that already contains guinea pigs since many diseases and conditions can be passed between the two animals. Also, nothing is sadder than losing a new pet not long after bringing him or her home.

If you like this article, then might be interested in getting the "The Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs by Rachel Garlick" guide. It has some amazing facts on how to keep your Guinea Pig fed correctly and what food to avoid, keeping your treasured pet safe, healthy and Happy.

Click here to read our review of "Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs".

Florian Ross is a freelancer and small animals expert. For more tips on raising Guinea Pigs and having them live 3 times longer, see http://www.pets-lovers.com/guinea-pigs/guinea-pigs.htm

The Average Guinea Pig's Life Expectancy By Simon Wilson

2008-01-12T09:08:00.003-08:00

A guinea pig makes a fabulous pet for many reasons however one of the most imperative reasons is the flexibility to keep your pet outdoors or indoors. Many people are under a common misconception that guinea pigs are much too smelly to be kept indoors and this is just that; a misconception. This will be touched upon more in depth later on however another great reason for these animals is that the guinea pigs life expectancy is quite long and versatile. Lets take a closer look at the average guinea pigs life expectancy as well as other favorable traits about this marvelous creature.

Reviewing Guinea Pigs Life Expectancy

Most people when beginning to do research on a specific pet that they wish to acquire begin by asking how long it is expected to live and this is no different with the guinea pigs. In a typical situation, the guinea pigs life expectancy can be expected to last about five years although many guinea pigs have been recorded to live up to as old as seven! The age of four for a guinea pig is also considered to be quite old and it isn’t unheard of for a guinea pig to only live four years so the typical expectation you should have for your guinea pigs life expectancy is generally four to seven years old.

Sometimes this is a huge downfall with potential owners because they want the pet to live much longer than a mere four years. Inquiring about the guinea pigs life expectancy is sometimes the biggest downfall for the guinea pig getting a new home because some parents and individual owners feel the potential sadness of losing a pet. This is terribly unfortunate because the guinea pig is an excellent pet that not only requires but also loves human interaction. They are very social creatures and have a very gentle disposition and typically will crave affection from the owner.

The last issue to address when speaking of the guinea pigs life expectancy is that despite the fact that it may be short, these creatures make wonderful pets due to the fact that they have a seriously low biting tendency which makes them a great and safe pet to have with children as well as the elderly. Guinea pigs are very easy to feed daily and hold very low cost for food and supplies, which makes it a great pet also despite the low guinea pig life expectancy.

If you like this article, then you might be interested in getting the "The Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs by Rachel Garlick" guide. It has some amazing facts on how to keep your Guinea Pig fed correctly and what food to avoid, keeping your treasured pet safe, healthy and Happy.

Click here to read our review of "Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs".

If you want to learn more about Georgia Guinea Pigs please visit our site which is free to the public. You'll find the best tips on everything to do with Guinea Pigs

Guinea Pigs Training Guide - The Basics By Florian Ross

2008-01-12T09:08:00.002-08:00

Many people would be quick to call a guinea pig just another "dumb animal" but that's actually not true. Of course, when compared to a human or a dog, guinea pigs aren't going to astound you with their intellect, but they are much more intelligent than the average person gives them credit for, as any guinea pig owner knows quite well.

For example, if you feed your guinea pig fresh vegetables right out of the refrigerator, it won't take long for him to equate the sound of the refrigerator opening and him getting a tasty treat. His squeals and whistles will tell you that he wants what you've got in there.

Obviously, guinea pigs are trainable. They can be taught to walk on a leash (these are available at most pet stores) or to go to the bathroom in a certain area. Some have even learned to come when their owners call their name! Just like with any other animal, you must be willing to work consistently with your pet and to reward the desired behavior with treats, usually a favorite food. The guinea pig will then make the mental connection between the good feeling he gets from the reward and the behavior you want from him.

If you do plan on having your guinea pig on the floor a lot, then it may be a good idea to start litter training them early. You don't want to set your expectations too high for this endeavor, however. Guinea pigs will still go to the bathroom throughout their cage and will occasionally have accidents on the floor, but litter training them considerably reduces the liklihood that this will happen.

The easiest way to do this is to set aside part of their cage as a bathroom. A small litter pan (available at most pet stores) can be placed in one of the corners of the cage. In order to entice your guinea pig to use it as a bathroom, you should add in some of their waste to the litter when you clean out the cage. You should keep doing this each time you change the bedding in the cage.

When you let your guinea pig out on the floor, you should also place their litter pan on the ground with them. Most of the time they will use the pan to go to the bathroom. Even if your guinea pig does have an accident, it will most likely be poop, not urine, you'll have to clean up and that is much, much easier to take care of.

You can also train your guinea pig to walk on a leash in a similar way. First, you must get him or her used to wearing the leash. Put it on them while you are petting them or hand-feeding them fresh vegetables so that they'll connect the enjoyable activity with having the leash on. Once your guinea pig feels comfortable with the leash, you can begin walking with him. Start off with small distances in the house, then gradually move outside. Just be careful not to pull or yank on the leash too hard, since guinea pigs are more fragile than dogs.

If you like this article, then you might be interested in getting the "The Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs by Rachel Garlick" guide. It has some amazing facts on how to keep your Guinea Pig fed correctly and what food to avoid, keeping your treasured pet safe, healthy and Happy.

Click here to read our review of "Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs".

Florian Ross is a freelancer and small animals expert. For more tips on raising Guinea Pigs and having them live 3 times longer, see http://www.pets-lovers.com/guinea-pigs/guinea-pigs.htm

Cleaning Baby Guinea Pigs By Nathan Dormello

2008-01-12T09:08:00.001-08:00

If you have recently acquired a baby guinea pig and are wondering how to clean baby guinea pigs, you definitely aren’t alone. Chances are you even feel a bit uneasy about giving your baby guinea pig a bath in the sink or tub because it is so huge and the little animal is so small. You might even have a sneaking suspicion that when learning how to clean baby guinea pigs that the traditional form of bathing is not very well recommended for the little creatures.

Cleaning Options

It is a great thing that you are trying to learn how to clean baby guinea pigs because it really doesn’t even have to be as difficult as bathing a dog or a cat for example. It is so much easier and less messy than that method and the guinea pigs are quite happy for it too as not many enjoy the water. In learning how to clean baby guinea pigs there are a couple of different choices you have when trying to decide how to properly clean your pet guinea pig. Lets take a look at the options available to you and where to acquire them in your local neighborhood.

The first wonderful product that has in recent years hit the pet store shelves for small animals as a bath alternative and is a great tool in first learning how to clean baby guinea pigs is the powdered bath. The powdered bath is easily attained from the local pet store and even your local veterinarian should have an adequate supply of powdered bath for small animals. This is also incredibly easy to use and it causes virtually no stress on the baby guinea pig as well your pet might even enjoy it!

In learning how to clean baby guinea pigs with the powdered bath all that is required is that you dust an even coating of the bathing powder onto the baby and let it sit for a minute. Grab your favorite pet brush and gently brush the baby and that is the best way to know how to clean baby guinea pigs and the safest way for them as well.

If none of these options are available to you while you are trying to learn how to clean baby guinea pigs, you don’t have to panic it is still very easy to clean your baby guinea pig. If in a pinch, all you have to do is get a cloth and dampen it with lukewarm water and gently scrub the baby until it becomes clean.

If you like this article, then you might be interested in getting the "The Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs by Rachel Garlick" guide. It has some amazing facts on how to keep your Guinea Pig fed correctly and what food to avoid, keeping your treasured pet safe, healthy and Happy.

Click here to read our review of "Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs".

If you want to learn more about Georgia Guinea Pigs please visit our site which is free to the public. You'll find the best tips on everything to do with Guinea Pigs

Grooming Guinea Pigs By Florian Ross

2008-01-12T09:08:00.000-08:00

While most small animals don't require much grooming, guinea pigs are different. Their teeth, hair, and nails all require some specific attention on a regular basis. A guinea pig's front teeth continue to grow throughout their entire life. If they are allowed to grow without any control, the guinea pig will find it painful to eat and will, therefore, stop eating altogether.

The best thing you can do is to provide your guinea pig with hard things to chew on: carrots and other hard vegetables, chew sticks or blocks, or even tree branches. Even though you provide these materials, however, you will need to regularly check the guinea pig's teeth to make sure they aren't becoming unmanageable. Check to see if the teeth are turning inward because this is a sign of excessive growth.

If you do notice that your guinea pig's teeth are getting too long, then you need to take him to a vet and get them trimmed down. Never try to trim a guinea pig's teeth yourself! Your vet will have the proper tools and experience to safely trim the teeth to a normal length.

Another problem that sometimes arises with guinea pig's teeth, particularly if they aren't getting all of the vitamins they need in their diet, is that the tips of teeth may break off. This can also make it difficult for the guinea pig to eat. Take the cavy to your vet and feed him a softer diet until the tooth grows back properly.

Guinea pigs' hair also needs to be taken care of regularly. Keep in mind that guinea pigs with longer hair are going to require more grooming than short-haired cavies.

For short-haired guinea pigs, you need to purchase a small brush and then use it on their hair at least once a week. The brushing serves several purposes. For one, it prevents their hair from matting up and tangling. It also removes any chunks of dirt that may become mixed up in the hair. Because their hair is short, you probably will never need to trim or cut it.

Long-haired guinea pigs are a different story. They need to be thoroughly brushed at least once per day every day. If you need to go out of town for even a couple of days, You will need to leave your long-haired guinea pig with someone who can brush it for you since it doesn't take long for the hair to get terribly matted. In fact, even brushing it once per day won't be enough to stop all the tangles from forming.

You will also need to do something with the hair when it gets too long since it grows another inch in length every month. If you plan on showing the guinea pig, You will need to wrap up the extra hair so that it doesn't get caught up around the animal's feet or mixed up in the urine and feces. Special wraps are available, but You will need to contact a breeder or guinea pig club to find out where to purchase them. If you don't plan on showing your guinea pigs, You will need to trim your guinea pig's hair every couple of months. Don't cut the hair too short. You want it just short enough so that it won't interfere with your guinea pig's movement.

Regardless of the type of guinea pig you have, You will also want to do periodic inspections of its coat to check for lice. Lice are small white parasites that look like tiny worms. Guinea pigs often contract lice from hay and from other guinea pigs. If you do see lice on your guinea pig, you don't have to be alarmed. Generally, the parasites will stay on the guinea pigs and will not jump onto your children or into your home. However, the lice do need to be treated promptly. Your vet should provide you with a shampoo that will kill the lice. Shampoo your guinea pigs and thoroughly clean their cages, then repeat seven days later. You must repeat the process because it takes a week for lice eggs to hatch and you want to make sure to kill any of those remaining babies.

Finally, your guinea pig's nails need to be trimmed regularly also. While wild guinea pigs' nails are naturally worn down to an appropriate length, this does not occur in caged guinea pigs. Lengthy nails can be painful to the guinea pig and to the people who handle him, plus they can break off or get snagged which can cause further injury to your cavy.

You should allow your vet or professional guinea pig groomer to show you how to clip their nails the first time because it is more complicated than trimming your fingernails. Like most animals, guinea pigs don't like to be restrained. It makes them feel vulnerable, and they'll resist as much as they can which makes trimming their nails difficult. Your vet will be able to show you ways to restrain the animal so you safely complete the trimming.

More importantly, the guinea pig's nails contain blood vessels much like a dog's. If you trim too short, You will cut into one of those vessels and your guinea pig will bleed profusely. When this happens you must stop the bleeding immediately! It won't take long for your small pet to bleed to death if you do nothing. Many pet stores sell a powder that stops the bleeding quickly. You may want to ask your vet what he recommends.

If you're worried about cutting your pet's toenails too short, you may be better off trimming them just a little bit but more frequently.

Except for brushing the guinea pig's hair, all other parts of the grooming process should be done by an adult, not a child. Clipping nails, trimming hair, and inspecting teeth should never be done by a child. The guinea pig could become nervous and could bite out of fear for their own safety. Or the child could make a mistake that could cause pain or injury to the guinea pig.

If you like this article, then you might be interested in getting the "The Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs by Rachel Garlick" guide. It has some amazing facts on how to keep your Guinea Pig fed correctly and what food to avoid, keeping your treasured pet safe, healthy and Happy.

Click here to read our review of "Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs".

Florian Ross is a freelancer and small animals expert. For more tips on raising Guinea Pigs and having them live 3 times longer, see http://www.pets-lovers.com/guinea-pigs/guinea-pigs.htm

Guinea Pigs Cage Selection - How To Choose The Best Cage For Your Pig By Florian Ross

2008-01-12T07:28:00.004-08:00

The decision on where to place your guinea pig should be made before you choose a cage so you'll know exactly how much space you will be working with, particularly if you will be keeping your guinea pig indoors. Ideally, your guinea pig's cage should be at least 2 square feet per guinea pig, but the more area you provide for your pet, the happier he or she will be. The height of the cage is not as important. Guinea pigs don't really climb much because of their size so 18 inch walls should be high enough to keep them safely inside a cage.

Many guinea pig owners prefer to have multi-level cages for their pets. While the addition of ramps and other levels may be fun and interesting for the guinea pig, it isn't necessary.

When most people purchase their guinea pig cages, they usually go through a pet store. This can be a mistake for several reasons:

1. You will pay too much! A decent-size guinea pig cage in any pet store will run you around $75 to $100 minimum, which is way too much to spend for what you are getting.

2. You will have to do additional modifications on the cage to make it livable for your guinea pig. Your cage should never have an exposed wood interior (it soaks up the smell of their urine) or an exposed wire bottom (it can hurt their sensitive feet). Many of the cages you purchase in pet stores have these features.

3. You usually won't be able to find a large enough cage. Remember that for one guinea pig, you need at least 2 square feet of cage space. Each additional guinea pig requires between 2 to 4 extra square feet of space. Also, you need to figure in the room for toys, hiding places, and food dishes. Many cage manufacturers will try to fool you by quoting only the exterior size on the box but, because of how it is measured, that can be a foot or more different from the actual amount of room your guinea pig would have inside the cage.

If you do decide to buy a pet store cage for the sake of convenience, be sure to also figure on giving them lots of time to run around on the floor.

The best option regarding guinea pig cages, particularly if you want to keep several together, is to build your own. This may sound difficult, but it truly isn't, especially if you find some helpful instructions to work with. Cavycages.com, for example, includes detailed instructions on how to create a safe, roomy cage for your guinea pigs relatively easily and inexpensively.

All of the pieces can be purchased in local stores and would cost anywhere from $60 to $90 to create, including the table to sit the cage on. While that may not seem like much of a savings over the pet store variety, you won't have to do any further modifications and you will be giving your guinea pig more than 10 square feet of room to enjoy.

For those guinea pigs who will be staying outside, you will probably want to construct your own hutch as well. Most of the ones currently sold are either not of good quality, have interior exposed wood, or both. Another option is to purchase a metal commercial cage, remove the wire bottom, and place it on a table that is high enough off the ground to prevent other animals from having easy access to the guinea pigs.

If you do choose to build your own, avoid using chicken wire and instead opt for welded wire because chicken wire can cause injuries to the animal's mouth if he or she chews on it. However, you do not need to worry about the guinea pig chewing its way through either type of wire.

One final word of caution on choosing a cage: Many pet stores sell aquariums and fish tanks as ideal homes for guinea pigs and other small pets, but this is a definite no-no. Guinea pigs need a well-ventilated cage because the ammonia fumes from their urine can cause them to become ill. Obviously, an aquarium is not well-ventilated and, therefore, should never be used as a home for your guinea pig.

Regardless of the type of cage you buy or make, you'll want to be sure that it is fairly easy to clean. At least once every two weeks, you need to remove everything from the cage and give it a thorough cleaning so be sure you can do that as conveniently as possible. People, even loving pet owners, tend not to do necessary things when they are too much of an inconvenience.

If you like this article, then you might be interested in getting the "The Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs by Rachel Garlick" guide. It has some amazing facts on how to keep your Guinea Pig fed correctly and what food to avoid, keeping your treasured pet safe, healthy and Happy.

Click here to read our review of "Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs".

Florian Ross is a freelancer and small animals expert. For more tips on raising Guinea Pigs and having them live 3 times longer, see http://www.pets-lovers.com/guinea-pigs/guinea-pigs.htm

The Seven Foods That Must Always Be Kept Away From A Guinea Pig By Florian Ross

2008-01-12T07:28:00.003-08:00

If you know what food you should be feeding your guinea pig, you should also know that there are some things that you shouldn't feed them.

If you accidentally feed your guinea pig something from this list that is not poisonous, just watch him or her carefully for signs of illness. However, you'll want to call or take him to the vet immediately if he or she has ingested something poisonous.

The forbidden items

- Do not feed your guinea pig iceberg lettuce. While most leafy greens do provide an excellent source of Vitamin C for your guinea pig, iceberg lettuce does not. You're better off purchasing kale or cabbage for your pet.

- Do not feed your guinea pig long stalks of celery. Those stringy pieces that can get wound up in your garbage disposal are just as hard for your guinea pig to digest. If your guinea pig likes celery, you need to cut it up into smaller pieces before you give it to them.

- Do not feed your guinea pig any shelled nuts or seeds. Your guinea pig can easily choke on the pieces of the shell. Also, be careful about the guinea pig treat sticks that are sold in pet stores because these often contain shelled seeds.

- Do not feed your guinea pig rhubarb, beans, or potatoes with green spots. These are all poisonous to your guinea pig.

- Do not feed your guinea pig certain types of plants. While some plants, like dandelions and clover, are safe for your guinea pig, many others are poisonous to him or her. Daffodils, hyacinths, poppy, and buttercups are some of those too avoid.

- Do not feed your guinea pig any dairy products.

Although some people may suggest feeding their guinea pigs yogurt in order to clean out their digestive systems, you should avoid feeding any dairy product to your guinea pig because they are lactose intolerant, which means their bodies can not properly process daily products.

Also, excess calcium will cause guinea pigs to develop kidney and/or bladder stones.

Remember:

If you accidentally feed your guinea pig something from the list above that is not poisonous, just watch him or her carefully for signs of illness. However, you'll want to call or take him to the vet immediately if he or she has ingested something poisonous.

If you like this article, then you might be interested in getting the "The Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs by Rachel Garlick" guide. It has some amazing facts on how to keep your Guinea Pig fed correctly and what food to avoid, keeping your treasured pet safe, healthy and Happy.

Click here to read our review of "Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs".

Florian Ross is a small lizard expert and a freelancer who developed comprehensive guides to help people succeed with their bearded dragon pet and have your bearded dragon lizard live two times longer. His guides on Bearded Dragons are considered the definitive guides on raising Bearded Dragons.

Find out more tips on raising Bearded Dragons Lizards and having them live 2 times longer, with his popular ebook about Bearded Dragons or get a free sample of Florian's bearded dragons caresheet

Top 10 Guinea Pig Care Mistakes Or How To Extend Your Piggie's Lifespan By Michael D. Weber

2008-01-12T07:28:00.002-08:00

Guinea pigs, originating from Peru and Bolivia, are wonderful pets - cute, social, yet inexpensive and relatively easy to take care of. However, most beginner guinea pig owners don't know much about the animals. In fact, guinea pigs, like other small rodents, are rather delicate and an illness contracted for instance by a cold draft can be fatal for them within a very short period of time.

The most common mistakes made by inexperienced guinea pig owners include the following:

10) Wrong cage placement. Both too hot or too cold temperatures are bad for guinea pigs. They can easily get heatstroke at temperatures of above 90F (30C), but can also freeze at temperatures below 70F (10C). Drafts are to be avoided as well, since they can cause pneumonia.

9) Mistakes when handling. The correct way to pick up and hold a guinea pig is by placing one hand below the body, with the thumb around a front leg, and supporting the weight with the second hand below the hindquarters. A guinea pig should never be pulled by the fur or by a leg.

8) Not clipping nails. This should be done regularly, at least once a month, since the nails grow and get in the way of the guinea pig. If a long nail breaks, it may lead to infections and abscesses.

7) Using a wire mesh bottom cage. This is not a good idea with guinea pigs, since their small feet slip through the mesh and get irritated by the metal, causing foot sores and an illness called bumblefoot. A solid floor cage with a soft bedding like pelleted paper is much better.

6) Placing a boar and a sow together without being prepared for the consequences - a bunch of little guinea pigs. If not neutered, male and female guinea pigs put together will in all likelihood mate and cause offspring. Breeding guinea pigs is in general not recommended if you are not fully aware of the consequences.

5) Not making the house guinea-pig-proof. There are numerous danger in a typical household for a guinea pig on the loose. The most obvious ones include anything that moves - be it people, doors, things that can fall down, or anything that can squeeze a guinea pig. Another one is cables - guinea pigs chew everything in sight, and electric cables are not very good food! Green plants are another potential threat to guinea pig health - a lot of them (such as ficus or azalea) cause food poisoning if chewed on.

4) Not cleaning the cage regularly and often enough. Guinea pigs are clean animals and feel miserable in a dirty cage. Bad hygiene is also often the reason for infections and various serious diseases. A guinea pig cage should be thoroughly cleaned at least once a week (better twice), with the whole bedding renewed. Food bowls and the water tube should be cleaned daily.

3) Not providing enough space and exercise. A sight seen very often is a guinea pig hunched in the corner of a small cage, barely moving from that spot all day. Combined with unrestricted dry food access, this is a sure way to make a guinea pig overweight and thus significantly reduce its lifespan. For guinea pigs, the same basic principle applies as for humans - leaner is better. A healthy guinea pig should feel firm to the touch, not soft and wobbly. Methods to ensure that your guinea pig is in good shape and not overweight include enough space (at least 3-4 sq.ft for an adult guinea pig), toys to play with, regular exploration forays outside of the cage, and restricted food access (for instance, feeding twice a day).

2) Incorrect bedding. Wood shavings in particular, although very frequently used, are not a good bedding for guinea pigs. They can cause foot sores, injuries to the cavies' delicate eyes, and wood dust which often accompanies shavings causes respiratory (lung) problems. Some kinds of wood, such as cedar or redwood, also contain oily components that can also cause allergies and illnesses with guinea pigs.

1) Improper food. This is probably the most frequent cause of illnesses and deaths among pet guinea pigs. In particular, feeding a lot of moist vegetables such as lettuce can cause diarrhea, which can be lethal for a guinea pig within one or two days. Insufficient access to water (for instance, failure to notice that a gravity water bottle's ball was stuck and the guinea pig cannot drink enough) leads to dehydration and is also quite dangerous. Providing water in open bowls instead of a bottle can lead to contamination with droppings and bedding material and various infections as a result.

If you like this article, then you might be interested in getting the "The Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs by Rachel Garlick" guide. It has some amazing facts on how to keep your Guinea Pig fed correctly and what food to avoid, keeping your treasured pet safe, healthy and Happy.

Click here to read our review of "Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs".

By avoiding these mistakes you are on a good way towards having a healthy and happy guinea pig with a long lifespan. However, there are more issues that we could not cover in this short article. If you want to read more about proper guinea pig care, our comprehensive guide at http://www.cavyguide.com/ answers all guinea pig questions you might have.

Guinea Pig Diet By Graeme Jarry

2008-01-12T07:28:00.001-08:00

A Good Diet is the Basis for a Healthy Guinea Pig.

WATER: Should be fresh and cool ,needs to be changed daily, (best provided in a drip bottle to prevent contamination). Avoid using distilled water and avoid water that is high in minerals, especially if high in calcium. Vitamins or medications should not be added in the water.

VITAMIN C: It’s well known Guinea pigs cannot manufacture their own vitamin C and require 10 to 30 mg daily . Whilst many guinea pigs receive adequate vitamin C from fresh vegetables and pellets, you may wish to ensure your guinea pig gets sufficient vitamin C by giving a quarter of a 100 mg chewable or plain vitamin C tablet. liquid vitamin C drops can also be given to each cavy. Young, ill and pregnant pigs require extra vitamin C. see my book for a complete Vitamin "C" Table

PELLETS: Plain dye free high quality guinea pig pellets (mixes with nuts are considered too rich), formulated with Vitamin C. Allow approx 1/8 cup of pellets a day when also fed adequate hay and fresh vegetables. It’s best to purchase pellets in small quantities and store in a dry cool dark place to preserve the potency of the . Look for a pellet that uses stabilized vitamin C. It’s always best to avoid pellets that use animal byproducts and those whose primary ingredient is corn.

GRASS HAY: Plenty of high quality, grass hay (timothy and orchard grass are popular) should always be available to each and every guinea pig, no matter what age. The Grass hay keeps their digestive system moving. It also helps prevent their teeth from over growing. Alfalfa hay can be given to young guinea pigs, pregnant, nursing or malnourished adults. Excess calcium could contribute to the formation of bladder stones in older guinea pigs.

VEGETABLES: Fresh vegetables in small amounts (about a cup a day) are an important additional source of vitamin C and other nutrients. Parsley, romaine lettuce, a small piece of carrot, tomato, green or red pepper, spinach, and cantaloupe are popular choices. And clean, pesticide-free grass, clover, dandelion greens, corn husks and silk, will be appreciated by your pet. Be sure to Wash vegetables thoroughly. Vegetables must be introduced slowly, to avoid digestive upsets.

If you like this article, then you might be interested in getting the "The Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs by Rachel Garlick" guide. It has some amazing facts on how to keep your Guinea Pig fed correctly and what food to avoid, keeping your treasured pet safe, healthy and Happy.

Click here to read our review of "Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs".

Graeme Guinea Pig Enthusiast

http://www.GuineaPigSecretsRevealed.com

Guinea Pigs Body Language and Sounds - How to Communicate With Your Guinea Pig? By Florian Ross

2008-01-12T07:28:00.000-08:00

One of the guinea pig's traits that really sets it apart from other small pets is its way of communicating with you and with other animals. Cavies have an array of physical and verbal communication methods that make it easier for you, as the owner, to get inside their head, see what their thinking, and provide them with what they need.

Because their methods of verbal communication are the most unique, we'll start by discussing those.

Many first-time guinea pig owners have often heard rumbling or clacking sounds coming from their tiny creature's cage but never really suspected that those noises were coming from their pet, but they are. In fact, a group of rowdy guinea pigs can get real noisy, real fast.

Guinea pigs have a set of around 7 different sounds (some have subtle variations as well) that were originally used to communicate with their herd in the wild. Each sound has a distinct meaning and is often reinforced with appropriate body language.

Let's look at some of those meanings.

1. Low rattling sound - This deep, constant sound signals to the guinea pigs of the opposite sex that he or she is in the mood. Also, if you have two or more female guinea pigs, you may hear this noise when the dominant cavy greets the others.

2. Rumbling sound - This sound is a signal that your guinea pig doesn't like something. If you are petting him, then that means it doesn't feel comfortable with how you are touching him. If he is alone in his cage, it might mean that there's a loud sound he doesn't like.

3. Squeals/Whistles - Normally, this sound is never used with other guinea pigs. The animal has developed it for one purpose: to ask humans for food.

4. Clacking teeth - If you have several guinea pigs in a cage together, you will definitely want to listen for this sound which is a warning and a signal of aggression.

5. Shreiks - Guinea pigs make this sound when they feel afraid, lonely, or in pain. If your pet makes it, then you need to figure out why and resolve the situation so your guinea pig can return to being happy.

6. Grunts/Squeaks/Chirps - you will, hopefully, become all too familiar with these noises since the guinea pig uses them to let you know he's happy and comfortable. It's also the basic sound used between guinea pigs as they communicate with one another.

7. Purrs - These soft sounds may remind you of a cat as it rubs on your leg, and both the cat's and the guinea pig's sound means pretty much the same thing: they like whatever you are doing a lot!

Many pet owners want to know the secret of getting their guinea pigs to purr, but there really is no secret that they can find in a book. Each guinea pig is different, and each likes to be held and petted in different ways. If you want to make your guinea pig happy, the best thing to do is to experiment and to listen to what he tells you. He'll let you know what he likes and what he doesn't like; you just have to pay attention.

Just as their verbal messages can help you interpret their feelings, so can guinea pigs' body language.

One of the most common things you may see your guinea pig do is to jump straight up into the area or to make several successive jumps in a row. This behavior is referred to as “popcorning" since the guinea pig resembles the popcorn kernals popping around while they are being cooked. This tells you that they are in a great mood and that they are very happy.

Guinea pigs also like to stretch their bodies. This also is a sign of being content. However, if they are only stretching their head that means they are very alert and are paying attention to what is going on around them very carefully.

When you hear that teeth clacking or rumbling sound, it's a good bet that you will either see your guinea pigs showing their teeth or standing up on their stiff back legs. Both of these are signs of aggression and could signal an impending fight.

Keeping a watchful eye and ear on your guinea pigs can help you provide them with everything they need to be truly happy and safe.

If you like this article, then you might be interested in getting the "The Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs by Rachel Garlick" guide. It has some amazing facts on how to keep your Guinea Pig fed correctly and what food to avoid, keeping your treasured pet safe, healthy and Happy.

Click here to read our review of "Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs".

Florian Ross is a freelancer and small animals expert. For more tips on raising Guinea Pigs and having them live 3 times longer, see http://www.pets-lovers.com/guinea-pigs/guinea-pigs.htm

Sun Seed Fun Pet Guinea Pig Starter Kit (5 piece starter kit)

2007-09-01T15:58:00.000-07:00

Everything you need for your new Guinea Pig in one fun box! Each Fun Pet Guinea Pig Starter Kit contains a collection of food, treats and bedding products specifically designed for each Guinea Pig.

Sun Seed products are designed for bird and small animal enthusiasts, avid hobbiest, and professional bird breeders alike; and are available for purchase in retail pet specialty stores worldwide. All Sun Seed products are made from top quality ingredients procured from around the world, and carefully formulated into feeds and treats designed to meet the specific dietary requirements of individual species.
Each formulation is based on the expertise and recommendations of aviculturists, nutritionists, and veterinarians. Sun Seed products are triple-cleaned, freshly made to order, and packaged utilizing modern packaging systems which ensure freshness, extend shelf life, and guarantee a bug free environment.

Loaded with your pet's favorites; more fruit, more vegetables and more nuts. Bananas, raisins, carrots, celery, peanuts, and peas are just a few of the treats you will find in this delicious mix.

These are the best vitamin-enriched mixes available. They have been speciall formulated to be a balanced diet. Using only the finest quality seeds and grains, these mixtures are fortified with vitamins, minerals and electrolytes.

This Kit makes a GREAT gift for the young pet owner.

Copyright 2007, All Rigths Reserved

Guinea Pig Toys

2007-08-14T09:37:00.000-07:00

Guinea pigs are wonderful pets but there are certain things they need in order to live a happy life. Of course they would love to have a guinea pig toy or two in their cage, but you first have to ask yourself if the cage is big enough. It is very important that they have enough space to move as well as exercise, so if the cage is just big enough for them to do those things, rather wait until you can get them a bigger cage and then buy them a guinea pig toy. If you are 100% sure that your cage is big enough, your guinea pig would love to have a toy to play with!

Here are a few ideas if you are interested in buying a guinea pig toy;

Wood chews are a great guinea pig toy as these animals love to chew on wood, at least when they chew on this they will not be in trouble! They will find these wood chews amusing so they will play with it first and then eat on it, so it’s a toy and treat in one! Other chews are Super Pet Bark Bites, Branch Bites, Block Bites, Jungle Talk, and many more. These chews are available in many different bright colors and are not harmful to your guinea pig.

A little more on the healthy side of a guinea pig toy is the Vegetable and Mineral chews. These are safe for them to nibble on and they are fun to play with. They are all made from natural vegetable cores and are available in Crispy Crops, Corn and Celery, Critter Cone, Salt Savors and many more. The Lava Bites will not only provide the little one with fun and games but it will also help to sharpen their teeth.

To give your guinea pig a guinea pig toy will be great, but what is even better is giving getting them a treat holder. This holder will ensure that all his treats and toys are easy to reach and that they remain clean. This is important as it is not possible for the owner to be there at all times, therefore the animal can get their guinea pig toy on their own, without any help. This can be put in the cage as it is easy for the guinea pig to get to.

It is a good thing that a guinea pig likes to chew because their teeth are constantly growing and by chewing they will prevent their teeth from becoming too big. This is also where a guinea pig toy is useful as they will chew on that too. The guinea pig toy is also good for the animal because it will help to keep them fit. It is important for them to be fit as they like to exercise and this is why they need a cage that is big enough for them to do so.

More ideas of a guinea pig toy is crumpled paper, wood blocks, willow rabbit toys, fleece tunnels, balls, cardboard boxes, hard plastic toys and paper bags seem to make good hiding places for them when they are tired. When purchasing a guinea pig toy make sure that is consists of no small parts that can come off as there might be serious problems if your guinea pig swallows something unusual.

Another great guinea pig toy is a wooden tunnel, some would say that this isn’t really a toy, but your guinea pig will definitely love it! These animals like to “hide” when they get tired of playing so tunnels and “hidey’s” are great for them. If you have more than one guinea pig, it is important that you have a tunnel for each of them plus an extra one. When they have had enough time to experience the tunnels, you can get more creative by adding towel tents and other fun toys for them to enjoy. With all the toys and other accessories, it is important to have fresh hay in the cage and because of all the items in the cage, the guinea pig needs quite a big cage for all their toys and activities but they also need space to run around.

If you like this article, then you might be interested in getting the "The Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs by Rachel Garlick" guide. It has some amazing facts on how to keep your Guinea Pig fed correctly and what food to avoid, keeping your treasured pet safe, healthy and Happy.

Click here to read our review of "Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs".

Copyright 2007, All Rights Reserved

Guinea Pig Food

2007-08-14T09:09:00.000-07:00

Vitamin C is not naturally produced in guinea pigs, thus they should to be given it day after day to guarantee first-class health. The lack of vitamin C causes scurvy. Every guinea pig has to be given 10mgs of vitamin C on a daily basis to 1kg body weight. A vitamin C supplement can be found in pet stores and supermarkets that sell food. A guinea pig cannot only on this source of supplement. Vitamin C can also be added to 1qt of water, freshly made every 12 or so hours, alternatively a handful of kale or cabbage can be given, even a quarter orange.

Oxbow cavy cuisine, which is a timothy hay-layered pellet food, a guinea pig in adult stage will enjoy this food and it will promote good health. Should your guinea pig be a little under 10 months old, the recommended diet for this age group will be alfalfa hay- layered pellet based food. A guinea pig that is mothers-to-be and is nursing requires a higher protein and calcium consumption, which is where Cavy Performance plays its roll. Certain guinea pig chow contains artificial colors which have a bad influence on your guinea pig and makes them hard to please should they eat this kind of food. Guinea pig mixed feeds also consist of nuts and seeds; these are high in fat and are not healthy for guinea pigs.

It is recommended to always serve food in a heavy ceramic bowl, as to prevent it from been tipped over while eating. The sides of the bowls should be high enough to hold back the bedding and fecal pellets. Washing the bowl after every meal is strongly advised and you also have to make sure that the bowl is well dried before adding fresh food. A guinea pig however is more concerned about what contents are in the bowl more than the cleanliness. Water should be made easily available and free from contamination; you may do this by supplying more than one bottle of water which should be equipped with “sipper” tubes. Water bottles tend to become contaminated and clogged as the guinea pig chews on the end of the sipper tube and backwashing food particles up the tube.

Should you notice that your guinea pig is picking up a bit of weight, this could be the result of eating too many pellets, either out of boredom or they are lacking in exercise. Preferably decrease the amount of food, a guinea pig can fill up on hay and their daily vegetables, these foods are not fattening rather very healthy. Weighing your guinea pig on a daily basis and keeping a record of the weight of your guinea pig. Should you be concerned about your pigs’ weight, either a decrease or an increase in excessive amounts, veterinary advice is recommended.

When purchasing food, guinea pig recommended quantity is 2 x 4kg for a few weeks for the average amount of 5 guinea pigs.

A gradual change has to be made when introducing food; a guinea pig can be at risk to sudden changes in its diet, when first been introduced to a more solid foodstuff this in turn may make their tummies upset. Failure to introduce food at a gradual level usually results in refusal of water and food; this may lead to a disease. Towards new food; a guinea pig in general is a creature of habit and does not handle change to scent, surface, flavor, arrangement or appearance very well.

Even if you should store pellets in a cool, dry place, about half of the vitamin C content is ruined and lost probably within 6 weeks after purchasing.

Recommended food, as a guinea pig requires a lot of vitamin C can be found in;


Recommended Food     Calcium per ratio
Watercress                2:1
Turnip Greens           4.5:1
Swiss Chard             1.1:1
Squash                    1:1
Spinach                   2:1
Mustard Spinach         7.5:1
Kale                    2.4:1
Dill Weed               3.2:1
Dandelion Greens        2.8:1
Loose Lettuce           2.7:1
Lambs quarters          4.3:1
Cabbage                   2:1
Beet Greens               3:1
Chinese Cabbage         2.8:1
Cilantro                1.4:1
Collards               14.5:1
Chicory Greens          2.1:1

Guinea pigs are high maintenance pets and needs to be cared for very carefully.
A dose of vitamin C should not be disregarded and be taken with high regard. It
has to be remembered that guinea pigs take time to adjust and lots of patience is required.

If you like this article, then you might be interested in getting the "The Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs by Rachel Garlick" guide. It has some amazing facts on how to keep your Guinea Pig fed correctly and what food to avoid, keeping your treasured pet safe, healthy and Happy.

Click here to read our review of "Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs".

Copyright 2007, All Rights Reserved

Feeding Guinea Pig

2007-08-14T09:07:00.000-07:00

Guinea pigs are lovely pets to have, sometimes they don’t look too handsome, or they are too handsome and you just have to get one, but they are generally good pets. This is why it is important that you provide your guinea pig with a healthy diet. Feeding a guinea pig may seem like the easiest duty, but it has to be done correctly or the animal could get ill.

The first important aspect of their diet when feeding a guinea pig the correct food is Vitamin C. Vitamin C is very important to a guinea pig; this is because they cannot produce their own vitamin C like humans can. If you do not feed your guinea pig enough vitamin C foods, they are at a high risk of becoming ill with a decease known as scurvy. The correct amount of Vitamin C to use when feeding a guinea pig normally depends on the breed, size and weight of the animal, but approximately 10-30mg a day will be fine. Although, if your guinea pig is ill, young, pregnant or nursing, they will need more vitamin C in their daily diet.

Many of the guinea pig pellets that are available on the market today are added with vitamin C, but because vitamin C is unbalanced, the goodness will decrease if the pellets are kept for too long. The pellets are also available with a stabilized type of vitamin C, and if you keep the pellets in a cool and dry area in the house, it would help to preserve the goodness.

When you are feeding a guinea pig, giving them different nutritious vegetables that are high in vitamin C along with the pellets, will definitely keep them healthy. The best way to increase with extra vitamin C is by using vitamin C tablets. These are available especially for guinea pigs, or if you cannot get those you can get the normal vitamin C tablets for humans. When buying the human tablets make sure that they are chewable and are only vitamin C enriched with no added vitamins. For adult guinea pigs, a quarter of the 100mg tablet is required when feeding a guinea pig.

Another way to add the vitamin C when feeding a guinea pig is by putting it in their water. The method might seem a lot easier, but it is not that effective and has a lot of disadvantages. The vitamin C tends to loose its effectiveness when diluted. Another problem is that you cannot force them to drink it quickly enough and by the time they decide they are thirsty, the vitamin C is basically dissolved. They also might refuse to drink it because of the taste, and that will lead to other complications such as dehydration which can be severe. This is another way it can be done, but the other methods are way more effective as you will be able to tell if the animal is getting enough vitamin C when you feed it the vegetables or the tablets.

When feeding a guinea pig, remember that they should be given pellets daily. Guinea pigs, unlike many other animals, know when they have had enough food and they will not overeat. Only if your guinea pig is noticeably overweight would you have to restrict them to 1/8 cup of pellets a day, no more than that! Only give them pellets that are made for guinea pigs, when feeding a guinea pig, never give them cat, dog or any other animal pellets. The pellets should be bought in small quantities to ensure that it will all be used before the best before date. Also, try and purchase the pellets that contain a stabilized form of vitamin C. For a young guinea pig, alfalfa based pellets will do, and for an adult guinea pig, a timothy hay based pellet will be healthier. When feeding a guinea pig of any age, it is important that you avoid pellets that contain seeds, dried fruits, nuts, beet pulp, corn, and any other filler. Also, do not give them anything with high sugar content. Another thing you should remember about feeding a guinea pig is that they should also have hay in their diets. Separate from their food bowl, should be a stack of fresh hay. The hay needs to be fresh at all times therefore a new stack is required everyday.

Feeding a guinea pig is usually a difficult job as they require so much attention and can only eat certain things.

If you like this article, then you might be interested in getting the "The Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs by Rachel Garlick" guide. It has some amazing facts on how to keep your Guinea Pig fed correctly and what food to avoid, keeping your treasured pet safe, healthy and Happy.

Click here to read our review of "Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs".

Copyright 2007, All Rights Reserved

Guinea Pig Disease

2007-08-14T09:00:00.000-07:00

Malocclusion of the Premolar Teeth or Slobbers is a common disease. Guinea pig – that is over the age of 3 years – contracts this disease when the upper premolar and the lower premolar teeth meet inappropriately while it chews. As time goes by, the problem results in the teeth wearing abnormally from the disease. Guinea pig then sustains entrapment and also injury to its tongue and this becomes continuous. The animal tries it utmost to eat and is unfortunate when chewing and swallowing its food. Drooling is the result of the disease. Guinea pig weight loss becomes dramatic. When one suspects this condition in their pet, a veterinarian has to be consulted immediately. The Guinea pig’s mouth will be examined and this will confirm a diagnosis. To correct this problem it will involve anesthesia and trimming or/and filing of the teeth. The procedure is difficult because of the small mouth of the guinea pig. Before and after the procedure, the guinea pig will have to be force fed and antibiotics are necessary. Unfortunately, a permanent solution cannot be found to solve this problem, but periodic filing and trimming is necessary.

The Scorbutis and Scurvy - lack of vitamin C - Disease. Guinea Pig cannot produce its own vitamin C and because of this an adequate amount must be supplied apart from food servings. A lack of vitamin C results in scurvy, and this is characterized when the ribs and joints pain, the development of the teeth and bone is poor, unwilling to move, and bleeding from the gums. Vitamin C is included in formulated diets to prevent this disease. Guinea pig being exposed to dampness, heat and light will result in the reduction of vitamin C in their blood. Even though your guinea pig is fed reliable diets, it could still lead to scurvy, because the content of vitamin C is either lost or is reduced. You should contact a veterinarian once this disease is suspected so that a vitamin C program can be prescribed and the disease cured.

Thinning of the hair or hair loss is known to be a common disease guinea pig of the female sex contract. During each pregnancy these sexes lose their hair and it is frequently seen among the juveniles. Another result of hair loss is caused by barbering, and this “bad habit” starts when they chew the coats of those guinea pigs whose social order is lower. As a result, younger guinea pigs can lose great amounts of hair. Another reason for hair loss can also be caused by another disease. Guinea pig can contract parasite infestation and also fungal disease.

Heat Stroke or Heat Stress is another disease guinea pig is susceptible to. This is contractible especially to those guinea pigs that are heavily furred or/and overweight. Temperatures that exceed 85 degrees Fahrenheit and humidity anywhere above 70%, not enough ventilation and shade, stress and over crowding are additional factors. The signs of heat stroke before death include weakness, panting, refuse to move around, slobbering convulsions and delirium. Heat stroke in guinea pigs can be treatable, if the sign are recognized very early. Guinea pigs that are heat-stressed should be bathed or sprayed with cool water. Once this is achieved, a veterinarian is to be immediately contacted. Provide enough shade for guinea pigs if you house them outdoors and provide enough ventilation if your guinea pig is housed indoors. Having a device spraying a continuous mist of water within the guinea pig’s enclosure will help lower the air temperature.

Cancer is a very rare problem in guinea pigs. However, it is likely to be contracted by the elders. The tumors that involve respiratory lining and the skin are benign. The mammary glands, reproductive tract and the blood may also be affected by cancer.

Cervical Lymphadentis or Lumps is a disease guinea pig contract beneath the lower jaw and the upper neck. This is usually the cause when foods such as hay hurt the lining of the mouth or when the skin over the Lymphadentis nodes is penetrated by shallow wounds. A veterinarian can determine the culture of the pus with antibiotic testing and then determine which antibiotic will be suitable for the injection to cure the disease a guinea pig is vulnerable to.

If you like this article, then you might be interested in getting the "The Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs by Rachel Garlick" guide. It has some amazing facts on how to keep your Guinea Pig fed correctly and what food to avoid, keeping your treasured pet safe, healthy and Happy.

Click here to read our review of "Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs".

Copyright 2007, All Rights Reserved

Caring For Guinea Pig

2007-08-14T08:58:00.000-07:00

Guinea pigs as pets in modern society originally descend from the wild guinea pig of South America. Guinea pigs are classified by many as easy-going pets for children. Many parents around the world select the guinea pig if it is going to be the first pet for their children. Parents have the tendency of believing that having a small pet only requires a little care and attention. However, it is important that people realize that these creatures have not just one requirement, and caring for guinea pig is an ultimate job. This includes a cage that is roomy, their cages need a daily clean, they need to be put on special diets, they need to be handled gently, and last but not least – the adult of the house should be the one that tends to the needs and wants of these little pets.

The first step when caring for guinea pig is that they need lots of space to move. Make sure that the living space is around 18 inches, wall-to-wall, and a height of 14 inches and a depth of 25 inches. When housing these creatures in large cages the chances of these pets becoming more active are great. Forget the thought of aquariums. These provide very poor ventilation for the guinea pig. Also, stay away from wire flooring, because guinea pigs have tender feet and these kinds of flooring will hurt them. When going out and deciding on linings for the floors and also furniture for the cages, remember that guinea pigs chew on anything around them. Their teeth grow constantly and they do this to wear them down. Selecting the right flooring and furniture (as long as everything is nontoxic) is taking the right step to caring for guinea pig. Keep in mind that you should make use of plenty of material. Nesting materials are available a pet shops. Guinea pigs use these materials as a bathroom and also as bedding.

Hay should be provided and this should be of the best quality when caring for guinea pig. Rodents use this hay for snacking and nesting. Refrain from using cedar chips, sawdust and other materials that could lead to respiratory or/and other health problems. Last but not least, you should provide your new pet with a log; as long as the gnawing log is untreated it should be fine. Add in tunnels for them to crawl through, and also platforms for them to climb. Make sure the food bowl that you are supplying is gnawing and tipping resistant. Supply a bottle with water they can sip from. This is a great and the right way for caring for guinea pig.

You have to be extra careful the way you handle a guinea pig, because they are very easily stressed. To pick them up, you have to place one of your hands under its chest area, just behind its front legs. With the other hand, use it to cup his hindquarters. Now that you have a firm but very gentle grip on your friend, lift it. Immediately, pull it to your lap or to your chest. This will make it feel safe and it will also prevent it from thrashing around. This is the proper way of caring for guinea pig.

Your new friend must be fed a commercial food for guinea pigs. This is a food that has been formulated for this species. Guinea pigs are herbivores, so they need lots of vitamin C, and vegetables like cabbage and kale should do the trick. Certain vitamin supplements for the guinea pig should be taken up with the veterinarian. They will provide exactly what is needed for caring for guinea pig.
Guinea pigs do their part when trying to keep clean. They are always grooming themselves with their tongue, front teeth and their back claws. However, caring for guinea pig and its cage is your job. Scrub and then disinfect the cage, then let the cage dry before lying down a floor of fresh bedding. Make sure the water bottle is changed and cleaned daily.

As you can see, caring for guinea pig is a job, but a pleasure indeed. Those that have the time should consider getting one, but those that will not have the time caring for guinea pig should rather not.

If you like this article, then you might be interested in getting the "The Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs by Rachel Garlick" guide. It has some amazing facts on how to keep your Guinea Pig fed correctly and what food to avoid, keeping your treasured pet safe, healthy and Happy.

Click here to read our review of "Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs".

Copyright 2007, All Rights Reserved

Cage Type For Guinea Pigs

2007-08-14T08:53:00.000-07:00

Selecting the correct cage type for a guinea pig is important as this is where they will spend their time and it is important that your guinea pig is happy in order for them to be healthy. Guinea pigs are social animals so they are better off with two or three other of their kind, but most of the cages are not big enough to be home to more than one pig. Many owners will say that the old guideline of having a 2 squared feet space per guinea pig is outdated and should no longer be followed. Nowadays, the correct cage type for a guinea pig is 7.5 square feet for one and 10.5 squared feet for twp guinea pigs. If you are able to provide the animals with a larger space they will be happier and benefit more from the slight freedom. In most cases, purchasing the cage type for a guinea pig can be expensive and sometimes it is not big enough, where as a home-made cage will be less expensive to make and you can make it the size you think your guinea pig needs.

A cage type for a guinea pig that has wire floors or ramps should be avoided, but besides that, they normally are not too fussy about what they live in. the cage type for a guinea pig that has ledges of low plastic shelves provide some interest for them instead of having just a normal boring cage. When doing so, be sure to leave them enough ground space for running laps, do not put the shelves on the floor or too low off the floor so it can interfere with their exercise. For adult guinea pigs, the spacing between the bars of the cage should be about one inch. The great thing about having guinea pigs is that they are rather big and not very much into climbing and jumping. The most they are likely to jump is approximately 18 inches.

There are many ideas one can choose from when deciding on the correct cage type for a guinea pig. There are even kits that allow you to make your own cage in less than thirty minutes! The kit will include everything you need to make the cage and you can choose the size as well as the color. The sizes are normally, Extra Large (2x5 grids – 27”x71” 14 grids and 28 connectors), Large (2x5 grids – 27”x56” 12 grids and 24 connectors), and Medium (2x3.5 grids – 27”x50” 12 grids and 20 connectors, Small (2 x 3 grids – 27”x41” 10 grids and 20 connectors) and Extra Small (2x2.5 grids – 24”x37” ten grids and eight components. You can choose the color of the cage type for a guinea pig, the color of the coroplast can be green, light blue, navy blue, silver, grey, red, yellow or black. The color of the grid can be either black or white. You can be very creative when creating your own cage type for a guinea pig and it is guaranteed to save you some money.

If the cage type for a guinea pig that you chose does not have all that much space for your animal to exercise and you think they could do with more, a portable wire pen is what you need. They would like to be outside when the weather is not miserable and there is some sun shining, place a pen on the lawn and allow them some space until it gets cooler outside than take them back to their usual spot. Keep in mind that you should not have any fertilizer or pesticides on the grass when you let the guinea pig outside. Also remember that while they are outside they should have access to water and shade at all times. This is important as they like to exercise but get tired quickly because of their size and then like to drink lots of water.

The cage type for a guinea pig doesn’t really have to be all that specific, as long as they have space to exercise or you have a second cage that they can be put in and taken outside at a certain time everyday. They will be happy with this and more importantly, they will be physically healthy.

If you like this article, then you might be interested in getting the "The Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs by Rachel Garlick" guide. It has some amazing facts on how to keep your Guinea Pig fed correctly and what food to avoid, keeping your treasured pet safe, healthy and Happy.

Click here to read our review of "Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs".

Copyright 2007, All Rights Reserved

Buying Guide For Guinea Pigs

2007-08-14T08:33:00.000-07:00

Guinea pigs are great pets to have, but they do require a lot from their owner. They need to have all the appropriate goodies in their large cage; they need a special diet, lots of attention and loads more. So if you are interested in getting yourself a guinea pig, make sure you are going to have the time to care for it the correct way. They are very clean animals, they hardly bite and they are relatively calm. Their lifespan on average is 5-7 years but they are known to sometimes live till 10 or more years. It also doesn’t cost all that much money, if you follow this buying guide for guinea pig, it should come to a lot less than you expected! But before you just go out and buy a guinea pig, there are a few things you should know;

There are many different places you could go to pick out your guinea pig, but firstly, go to someone that breeds them if you are interested in a certain breed of guinea pig or if you want a guinea pig with a pedigree. If you are not looking for a certain breed, you can visit your local pet store or animal shelter. As any buying guide for guinea pig would tell you, these are not easy pets to have! You have to be 100% sure that you want a guinea pig; these animals can not be neglected! Before you get the guinea pig, you have to make sure you have everything they will need to get them settled down quickly. First things first, Here are the bare necessities;

A Cage – this is very important, your guinea pig needs a cage big enough for them to
Move freely. They need all the space they can get. It is also advised that you
Do not purchase a cage that has a wire bottom as this may injure their feet.

The Bedding – there are many different things one could use as bedding for a guinea pig, but in this buying guide for guinea pig, the best solutions are:

Chopped cardboard – tear up a small cardboard box but be sure to not tear hard pieces that could injure the piggie. It doesn’t make any dust either. Don’t make the pieces too small, just roughly 3cm.
Finacard – this is almost the same as Ecobed, except it is shredded instead of chopped and the guinea pigs seem to love it. The only problem is it doesn’t seem to stay clean as long as the others do; it’s also very allergy-safe.
Carefresh – according to other guinea pig owners, this is the best form of bedding to use. It is absorbent and it doesn’t smell easily.
Megazorb – this product is similar to Carefresh, just cheaper. It might not deliver the exact results, but it’s the closest you’ll get to Carefresh. It absorbs well, easy to clean and keeps the smell well hidden.
Shredded paper – this is the cheaper solution if you are on a budget. It is soft paper, its flakes so the guinea pig won’t get tangled in it and it is not dusty.

Plenty of Food – in this buying guide for guinea pig, food is extremely important! Guinea pigs mostly eat pellets but some other foods like vegetables, fresh greens and vitamin C are good for them.

Chew Toy – this is also a rather important part of a buying guide for guinea pig. When you purchase one of these for your pet, make sure it is wooden and has no small parts that can come off, preferably just a plain wooden block. This is important as it gives the guinea pig something to do and it also file’s their teeth. Their teeth grow their entire lives, so it is important that they file them down by chewing, or they might get too big for the little one’s mouth.

A Covered Sleeping Box – as long as this is a box with a top, its fine. Also, there must be an opening for the animal to move in and out freely.

A Water Bottle – with a soft teat for them to drink from. Make sure they have water at all times.

Now, the final steps of the buying guide for guinea pig; choose the guinea pig that looks healthy, playful and activate. Watch out for ones that are coughing, sneezing or have discharge around their eyes, nose or ears.

If you like this article, then you might be interested in getting the "The Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs by Rachel Garlick" guide. It has some amazing facts on how to keep your Guinea Pig fed correctly and what food to avoid, keeping your treasured pet safe, healthy and Happy.

Click here to read our review of "Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs".

Copyright 2007, All Rights Reserved

Breeding Guinea Pigs

2007-08-13T12:04:00.000-07:00

Breeding guinea pig is very rewarding. First of all, mating them is easy. Rearing them is easy and at the end of the day you will be happy as you watch these little creatures grow and develop. Just make sure that you will be able to provide good homes for the babies. The male guinea pig is called a boar and the female is called a sow and the sow can start breeding at the age of just five weeks. However, although this is possible it is still too young for the sow. It is recommended that the sow weighs around 400gm, and this equivalent to the sow being 3 months old.

Breeding guinea pig, the male should be at around 3 or 4 months of age before you allow them to mate. The cycle of the sow’s oestrus cycle (heat) lasts around 16 days. During this time, the sow will be interested in communicating with the boar for around eight hours. Breeding guinea pig can occur anywhere during these eight hours. The sows and the boar-beaus get on really well, so the only and easiest way to get the romance in the air is to keep the two together until you are positive that the sow is pregnant.

It will probably be easy for you to tell when the sow has reached her season. In the time of season the female guinea pig’s spine will curve and this will help her rear end elevate. You will find in the breeding guinea pig stages that the pregnant sow mounts other sows that are accompanying her. If you have more than one sow, a very happy boar can service up to 10 female guinea pigs.

Keep in mind that during breeding guinea pig stages the female guinea pig has to take her time in order to produce her little ones. This will take between nine and ten weeks before the wait is over and the reward to you will be babies. A sow is able to produce anywhere from a single to six young. However, three or four is what the average amount is. If there is going to be a larger litter, the length of pregnancy will be shorter.

After the breeding guinea pig stage has ended, you will notice during the female guinea pig’s pregnancy she will develop a bulbous shape, and her weight will be doubled. It will be recommended that the water quantities are increased because the “soon to be mother” will be consuming more water than usual.

For you to tell when the female guinea pig will deliver her babies will be hard. The reason for this is that the length of pregnancy is long and also because female guinea pigs don’t go around building nests. However, after the time of the breeding guinea pig and now close to the delivering stages you will notice the pelvis widening. This will occur in the last week before the sow gives birth. The separation of the pelvis increases in the last few hours before birth to more than 2.5 centimeters.

The delivery is usually uncomplicated and this usually takes anywhere around an hour. There is usually a 5 minute gap between each piglet entering the real world. Sad to know is that stillbirths and abortions are very common throughout the lives of guinea pigs.

The diet of the pregnant guinea pig after the breeding guinea pig period is very important. It is very important that the female guinea pig consumes more than the normal dose of Vitamin C. Guinea pigs can contract scurvy just like humans, and because of that they have to receive their dose of vitamin C. Guinea pigs can’t produce vitamin C, and during the breeding guinea pig stages, the female will require at least three times more vitamin C that she would normally receive.

Vitamin C can be added to the drinking water at a solution of 200mg of vitamin C to every liter of water. However, in water vitamin C dissolves quickly and supplementing the pregnant sow with foods enriched with vitamin C will solve that problem.

Breeding guinea pig can be a pleasure, but what is asked of you can be a real challenge. Rest assured that what you will experience will be the most beautiful thing on earth.

If you like this article, then you might be interested in getting the "The Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs by Rachel Garlick" guide. It has some amazing facts on how to keep your Guinea Pig fed correctly and what food to avoid, keeping your treasured pet safe, healthy and Happy.

Click here to read our review of "Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs".

Copyright 2007, All Rights Reserved

Bedding Guinea Pig

2007-08-13T07:00:00.000-07:00

The place where one sleeps has to be comfortable, whether it is a human or an animal, uncomfortable sleeping space means interrupted sleep, which is not good for anyone’s lifestyle. The most important is the bedding. Guinea pigs also have to have comfortable bedding to sleep on and there is so much to choose from, you just have to monitor and see what your pet likes most. A few of the popular types of bedding guinea pig includes;

VetBed
This is made from uniquely urbanized, long lasting polyester that will not carry any germs or bacterial growth. It is sterile, non-irritant; dirt defiant, soft, comfortable, 100% safe, won’t cause allergies and it can be washed in the machine. Any liquid will fall through the VetBed and leave the top of the bedding dry. This type of bedding requires dusting and washing every 2-3 days.

100% Hemp
This is made from hemp and although it is not the cheapest bedding, guinea pig will love it! It is not as absorbent as many other bedding types, but it will do. It is also very low on odor but it is slightly dusty and needs to be cleaned every 2 days. It is also somewhat rough on the feet.

Litter
This isn’t the greatest bedding for a guinea pig as it is hard on their feet and it gives off phenols but it is good to put under other bedding as it absorbs urine very well.

Shavings
This is the most common form of bedding. Guinea pigs sometimes have allergic reactions to them, but that all depends on the pet. So you will have to try it out to determine if it is good for your guinea or not. This is also very cost effective but rather dusty.

Shredded Paper
This is flaked paper used as bedding. Guinea pig will love this as it is soft, extremely comfortable; completely dust free and they won’t get jumbled up in it as it is flakes. It is also not harmful and they will not get injured by it.

Chopped Cardboard
Many companies make chopped cardboard especially for the bedding of a guinea pig. This is very low on dust which makes it great if you have a dust allergy. It is best when put on top of the newspaper in the cage. It is gentle on the feet, so no need to worry about that. It is also very absorbent and the liquid goes straight to the newspaper at the bottom of the cage, avoiding sogginess. They will also not get sore noses from tearing and playing with the cardboard like many other bedding types do. It is also not too expensive if bought in bulk.

Russell Rabbit
This is chopped straw that is great for bedding. Guinea pigs enjoy this as it is soft and will not cause them any find of injuries. The only disadvantage of using this bedding is that it doesn’t absorb liquid very well and it needs to be changed quite often, but that is not a problem s it is also one of the cheapest bedding solutions for guinea pigs and is also one of the most commonly used for bedding. A guinea pig needs something that is not going to be difficult to walk on, or hurt their noses when they play with it.

Megazorb
This is a fairly cheap form of bedding and it works wonderfully for guinea pigs as it is comfortable for them, its low on dust, absorbs the smell of urine and it is easy to clean as well as pleasant to handle – in other words you wont have to put a peg on you’re nose when it’s time to clean the cage! The only negative of this bedding is when you but it, it has to be in bulk so you will have to have a place to store it until it is all used.

There are many different kinds of bedding, but a guinea pig will only be satisfied with something specific, you’ll have to try them out if you don’t already know what they like and what they don’t like. Also make sure that you keep the bedding clean, different bedding has different cleaning instructions, so be sure to to follow them accordingly.

If you like this article, then might be interested in getting the "Guinea Pig Secrets Revealed" ebook.
It has some amazing facts on how to keep your Guinea Pig fed correctly and what food to avoid, keeping your treasured pet safe, healthy and Happy.

We have reviewed it and the review can be found
here.

Copyright 2007, All Rights Reserved

Guinea Pig

2007-08-12T10:18:00.005-07:00

We are now officially online!!!

Make sure you bookmark us, give us feedback, leave comments on our articles and reviews and don't forget to come back!

We'll be adding fresh articles and book reviews throughout the coming weeks.

Make this blog you one-stop site for news and information on Guinea Pigs.

Guinea Pig OnLine

2007-08-12T10:18:00.004-07:00

This Little Guinea Pig Is Officially OnLine

2007-08-12T10:18:00.003-07:00

This Guinea Piggy Is Officially OnLine

2007-08-12T10:18:00.002-07:00

Bathing Guinea Pigs

2007-08-12T10:18:00.001-07:00

Normally, guinea pigs are clean, and if you do not clean their cages regularly, they will possess that aroma that is lovely and familiar. What would help is bathing your pet and keeping their skin and hair healthy. Some people bath their guinea pigs every 3 or sometimes 4 months. This will be the recommended time bathing guinea pig, unless the furry friends are undergoing a skin condition treatment for lice or they have just become very messy for some weird reason. Keep in mind that bathing guinea pig frequently can lead to dry skin and also cause skin irritation.

For the preparation you will need a few things, and these are:

3 towels

Medium size bowl

Flannel plastic jug

Animal shampoo

Soft brush

Swarfega (used for the grease gland on Guinea Pig Boars)
Swarfega is a brand of heavy-duty hand cleaner. It is a dark green gelatinous substance, used to clean grease, oil or general persistent, dirt from the skin. As with other such cleaners, it is drastically more effective than soap or other common cleansing products at removing such dirt.

If it is cold, make sure that it is quite warm in the room so the guinea pig doesn’t get cold.

Before bathing guinea pig, add water to the plastic bowl. Make this about two inches deep and check the temperature of the water with your elbow and make sure that the water is not too warm or too cold before bathing guinea pig. A few people use the counter top in the kitchen and fill the sink with water and use that when they have to rinse down the guinea pig. Place the flannel in the bowl and this should help the guinea pig not slip around but feel rather secure while you start bathing guinea pig. It is advisable that you have everything that you will need within arm’s reach. Don’t leave a guinea pig unattended for one second.

When applying water before bathing guinea pig, use a plastic container with a spout. The one that came with your steam iron should work out perfectly. If you need to change the water in the basin make sure that you have a responsible person keeping their eyes on the guinea pig or their hands near its body while you turn away for a few seconds. Whatever you do, do not leave you pet unattended, especially on high surfaces.

There are different kinds of shampoo you could use when bathing guinea pig and you probably will hear about new products that prevent parasitic and fungal infestations. However, if you have to treat your little friend for any condition, you need an ordinary shampoo to penetrate the dirt and grease first before using the new shampoo to treat the infestations and other conditions.

Bathing guinea pig boars, you have to pay more attention to the grease gland and this is located near the tail area. Boars are the ones that usually have a grease gland, but a few sows have them too. It feels almost like a sticky coin. Adding a little Swarfega to the grease gland before bathing guinea pig boar will do the trick removing the grease. Allow the Swarfega to stay on the gland for a few minutes before rinsing it off. Mechanics use the product to clean their hands. The same product is ideal for cleaning the grease gland on boars.

If your guinea pig is suffering from mange mites, you need to visit the veterinarian immediately. In this case, a treatment of Ivomectin is given. A guinea pig having mange mites can cause severe pain and can also cause sores, and this is the result of intense biting and itching. Any fungal shampoo or parasite shampoo will not be successful when trying to rid the mites. You can ask the veterinarian to give the Ivomectin orally to the little friend, and this will save it from going through injections that could be painful. This is a rare condition, but the truth is that wherever you find guinea pigs you will find mange mites. If you have a litter of guinea pigs and only one of them is infected by the infestation it is best to treat all of them.

There are things to look out for before bathing guinea pig, and precautions should be taken when the little friend contracts a parasitic and fungal infestation. As time goes by, you will become used to tending to the needs and wants of these little furry creatures.

If you like this article, then might be interested in getting the "The Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs by Rachel Garlick" guide. It has some amazing facts on how to keep your Guinea Pig fed correctly and what food to avoid, keeping your treasured pet safe, healthy and Happy.

Click here to read our review of "Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs"

Copyright 2007, All Rights Reserved

Guinea Pig World

2007-08-07T09:51:00.000-07:00

Welcome!

We will be sharing our experiences about our happy, healthy and lively Guinea Pigs.

Please follow our lively articles, concerns and heart-ache on this rollercoaster

Thank!